One of my dream routes, the routes that I want to complete in my life, is Welcome to Barbados. A grade 29/30 put up by Malcolm HB Matheson sometime in the 80s (I think), it is a 50m horizontal roof climb in the grampians that goes ALL ON TRAD GEAR. It has two pages of instructions for placing the gear, and legend has it that HB did it on his second shot.
Here’s a video of Mayan Smith-Gobat doing it. Bloody epic!